Lebanon Trip from May 18 to 27, 2006

Last updated June 05, 2006.

Country: Lebanon

Duration: May 18 to 27, 2006

Distance Traveled in the Country:  ~ 700 km

Memorial Impressions of the Country:  There are two (2) parts to Lebanon.  Beirut, the capital of Lebanon, which if you love to party and drive like a lunatic is the place to hang out.  Most of the Lebanon's Mediterranean coast has been built up with ugly high rises and is littered with garbage.  In addition the area is way overcrowded.  The other part of Lebanon, which appealed to us is the snow capped mountains, green valleys and small villages scattered along the cliff edges with its red roof houses.  People here live at a slower pace and seem to appreciate life.  The Qadisha Valley and Mountain Range is the Switzerland of Lebanon.  Fresh air, fields of flowers and ice cold waterfalls greeted us as we rode along the narrow mountain roads, lost but enjoying every minute of it.

Gasoline Cost: approx. $0.80CDN/litre for 98 Octane Gasoline

Hotel/Camping Cost: On average about $20.00CDN/night for hotels and $6US/night for camping.

Food & Drink Cost: Comparable to Jordan. We cooked our own food on occasions.

May 18, 2006.  As we check out of Syria we travel along no-mans land for kilometers.  We are actually starting to wonder if there is a Lebanese border crossing. Bedouin tents are on both sides of the highway or maybe they are refugee camps.  We have seen these set up's mostly in Jordan and Syria.  At the Lebanese border crossing we are greeted in French and all signage is Arabic or French.  A 14 day Visa is only 25000 Lira or $18CDN/person. Again as Syria, Lebanon prefers the US Dollar, but we make it a rule to always pay in the countries currency.  We exchange some Syrian Pounds to Lebanese Lira at the local grocery vendor outside the Immigration building.  The carnet de passages for the motorcycles are stamped in another half an hour and there is no additional charge.  This has been the cheapest country to enter so far on this trip.  We enter Lebanon at Al-Qaa and head straight for the Hermel Pyramid.  The guide book doesn't give us any information and upon arrival we are still no wiser.  Lebanon is very green and mountainous. The country is only 10400square kms in size, but has a population of 3.6milion people, which makes it very crowded.  It seems that as one town ends another one starts.  Forewarned by other travelers and of course the guide book, which quotes "The average Lebanese drives like a lunatic who has only recently – and illegally – escaped from an asylum", we seem to cope pretty well.  Mike only has a couple of close calls with drivers suddenly stopping or turning in the middle of the road without any warning.  Every second we are on the bike we expect the unexpected.  Our destination is Baalbeck, Lebanon's greatest Roman treasure.  The Temples of Baalbeck, are counted to be the largest and most noble Roman Temples ever built, and the best preserved.  The City of Sun is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Signage to any tourist attraction in Lebanon are poor or non-existing, but due to Mike's pre-planning, he had entered all the World Heritage GPS coordinates into our GPS prior to leaving Canada.  This has saved us time countless times in finding the places.  After making our way through the maze of roads, we actually end up right in-front of the temples and across from the Shuman Pension.  Mohammed the owner let us park the motorcycles in his driveway.  The cheapest room was 20000 Lira ($14CDN/night) and shared bathrooms. Mohammed was very helpful in pointing out the must see attractions of Lebanon.  In the evening we make the acquaintance of a Swiss couple, Denise and Stefan, both adventure travels as well and have been all over the world.  We exchange addresses and it seems that we will meet again some day.

May 19, 2006.  The entrance to the Temples is only 100m from our Pension.  Eager as always we are the first ones at the Gate.  No tourists in sight.  Entrance fee is 6000 Lira ($4.50CDN)/person.  The setting of the Temple of Baaleck is spectacular.  Snow-capped mountains to the west for a backdrop and lush green trees engulf the ruins.  The site is entered through the monumental entrance or Propylaea.  Completed in mid-3rd Century AD and it once fronted 12 granite columns.  The staircase leading up to it makes it a grand entrance. From the Propylaea, three doors lead to the Hexagonal Forecourt, where 30 granite columns originally supported the entablature.  Already we are amazed by the size of stones used in the structures, which remind us of the pyramids in Egypt.  Following the Hexagonal Forecourt is the Great Court, covering an area of 134 x 112m.  Built in 2nd Century AD, the entire court was enclosed by a succession of rectangular and semi-circular exedrae or recesses decorated by niches which contained statues. One of these exedrae has been beautifully restored and gives a good example of what the other ones once looked like.  An 84 column Corinthian colonnade surrounded the Great Court.  In the centre a restored sacrificial altar and partial tower remains with a pool for ritual washing on each side, decorated with relief carvings. At last we arrive at the Temple of Jupiter, measuring 88 x 48m in size and stands on a 13m podium above the surrounding terrain and 7m above the Great Court.  The six (6) standing columns (out of 54) are 22m high.  The scale is amazing and we can't make up our mind if they are larger or the same size as the columns at Karnak in Egypt.  A picture of me standing beside the columns give one somewhat of an idea.  The remaining six (6) columns are joined at the top by an entablature decorated with frieze of bulls and lions' heads.  The podium is built with some of the largest stone blocks ever hewn (weighing approx. 800 tons each).  It is hard to capture the size in pictures. To the east of the Temple of Jupiter is the Temple of Bacchus.  The completeness of this Temple makes it remarkable.  It was constructed in early 2nd Century AD and dedicated to the young god of Baalbeck.  The Temple sits on an elevated structure of 5m.   A staircase leads up to a lofty monumental gate and view of its ornate interior.  No other Roman structure throughout the Middle East has been this complete.  It will give you a true representation of what it was like 1800 years ago.  Outside the main complex is the remains of the Temple of Venus, built in the 3rd Century AD, and identified as the temple of the Fortune of Baalbeck.  In fact, actual site is much older, the Temples of Jupiter, of Bacchus and Venus were built on an ancient tell (city) that goes back at least to the end of the third millennium BC.  Nearby is a closed off archaeological site, which can be viewed by looking over a stone fence.  It shows a colonnaded street with a stone paved road.  Exhausted, we return to the pension and treat ourselves to a large Cheeseburger and French Fries.  Mike risks a hair cut at the local "for Men only" Barber Shop.

May 20, 2006.  We are on the road south by 7am.  The sky is overcast and it is trying to drizzle on us.  We had blue sky for weeks on end and the sight of clouds is foreign to us.  We continue our way to Anjar, another UNESCO World Heritage Site.  En-route we stop at one of the famous Lebanese Pastry shops for breakfast and run into a guy from Calgary.  It is a small world.  Anjar is Lebanon's best preserved Islamic Archaeological and Umayyad site.  It has been fully excavated and dates back to 705-715AD.  The site seems a smaller condensed version of the Roman structures we have seen in the past.  The residential area is well preserved and the stone work of the structures does differ from the usual Roman architecture. A small tretapylon and a partial wall with some columns of the great palace have been reconstructed.  Again the setting of this site is beautiful, surrounded by mountains and pine trees.  With the sky clearing we make our way towards Beirut.  Forewarned of its traffic problems we decide to by-pass the city by detouring into the mountains.  Totally lost, we climb up and down mountains trying to make our way toward the Mediterranean Coast.  A 50km detour turns into a 2 hour excursion.  The roads are narrow and the switchbacks countless.  The mountains are covered with small villages, houses with red tiled roof and pine trees as far as you can see.  The clouds hang deep in the valley.  Finally we see the coast from Broummana and wind our way toward the outskirts of Beirut.  Traffic is tense and the complete coast line is built up with buildings and roads.  It feels like Europe.  Our destination is Amchit, a small village 3km north of Byblos.  The only Campground in Lebanon is located in Amchit.  Luck is with us and we turn off the "Autobahn" a few hundred meters from the Campground.  The Campground is located directly on the Mediterranean Coast.  A stone staircase leads alongside the cliff walls to the water.  For 4500 Lira ($3CDN)/person we set up our tent under a row of trees overlooking the sea.  We decide to make this our base for Lebanon.  All the major remaining tourist sites for Lebanon are within a 100km radius.  In addition, we noticed burn-out syndromes.  We had been pushing too hard and a rest was in order.  In the evening, after a good home cooked meal on our stove, we watch the sun set over the Mediterranean Sea.

May 21, 2006.  Okay, we would rest after today.  The town of Byblos (Jbail) and its Crusader castle, Roman ruins, ancient tombs and picturesque fishing harbour was calling for us.  We make our way through the souq to the entrance of the archaeological site, which is located right beside the ocean. Excavation at Byblos has shown that the site was inhabited as early as 7000 years ago. Byblos underwent the usual historical changes.  In the 3rd millennium BC it was the most important trading port in the Mediterranean under the ruling of the Phoenicians.  The Greeks took over from 333 BC and then the Romans in 64 BC.  Finally in 1104 the city fell to the Crusaders, hence the only well preserved structure is the castle built from the remains of Roman columns for fortification.  Most interesting are the Obelisk Temple dating to early 2nd millennium BC and the Neolithic and Chalcolithic huts from 5th and 4th millennium BC.  Nine Royal Tombs were also discovered behind where the Roman theatre sits today.  Vertical shafts have been cut deep into the cliffs and decorative stone sarcophagi were excavated.  The stone sarcophagi are still on display beside each tomb entrance.  The Royal tombs date back to 2nd millennium BC.  It was a pleasure seeing these sites without the constant harassment we had experienced in Egypt visiting the Valley of Kings.  No other country before or after Egypt have we been exposed to that kind of rude "in your face" treatment.  After a visit in the Museum located in the Crusader Castle, we strolled along the small fishing harbour.  Relaxing in the sun, updating pictures and journal, we end our day with two (2) large Pizza's and another sunset to remember.

May 22, 2006.  A well deserved rest day.  We try to do as little as possible, which encompasses sitting by the sea side, snorkeling and reading about Turkey.  We end the day with cooking some mashed potatoes and corn, peas and carrots.

May 23, 2006.  Leaving all our gear at the campground, we head 110km south to Tyre.  The only problem being battling your way through Beirut twice and the huge traffic problems.  It took us 2 1/2 hours to get to Tyre, located north of the Israeli Border.  Half way between Beirut and Tyre lays the city of Sidon.  As we pass through the town we get pulled over by the cops and they advised that motorcycles are not allowed in Sidon.  We are escorted by another motorcycle cop through town.  The whole scene was something out of Police Academy.  The motorcycle cop was too happy for his own good.  Driving slalom and "no hands" in front of us and stopping all the traffic approaching us from any intersection.  Some of this is actually caught on the helmet camera.  As we approach the town of Tyre the Autobahn suddenly and without warning comes to an end and we had to reverse with some other drivers to the off-ramp.  Tyre is a small town situated on the ocean.  There are three parts to the UNESCO World Heritage site.  Part 1 (Entry cost of 6000 Lira or $4CDN/person) includes a Roman Road and Colonnade Street leading into the once ancient Egyptian Harbour.  Besides a rectangular arena and a Roman Bath, the only spectacular aspect is the backdrop of the ocean with the columns lining the way to the ancient Egyptian Harbour.  From here we walk to the Part 3 (Entry cost of 6000 Lira or $4CDN/person), located about 2km away. This site is quite interesting as it has a 1.6km stone paved Roman Road leading through a well preserved monumental archway.  Beyond the monumental archway, 100's of large decorative stone tombs are lined along both sides of the street.  The U-shaped Hippodrome once seated 20,000 spectators, even with only a 1/4 of it remaining (restored) it gives one an idea of its size and grandness.  Area 2 can not be entered by Tourists and therefore we give it a miss.  Fighting our way back in traffic to the north of the country, we are exhausted and have our first alcoholic drink in months as we watch the sunset again. 

May 24, 2006.  Only 25km from our campground, in the mountains lays the famous Jeita Grotto.  Once we found the actual turn-off from the Beirut-Jounieh Highway, there was signage.  The number one Tourist attraction in Lebanon and definitely should not be missed, is this incredible cave, divided into upper and lower caves.  The entrance fee is a bit pricy at 18,150 Lira ($12CDN/person) and overall it is a bit much Disneyland-like, but the inside of the caves does not disappoint.  Photos are not allowed.  A gondola takes you a distance of 200m, which easily could have been walked.  Then a Mickey Mouse Train drives you the 50m from the upper cave to the lower cave.  Very tacky.  Entering the upper cave we were blown away by the amount of stalactites and stalagmites covering the huge rooms.  Some rooms were over a 100m in height.  The lighting was done excellent, as well as the design of the walkway through the cave.  The lower cave is only accessible in the summer time and then only by boat.  The electric motored boat swept us through the lower cave in no time and we wish we had our own kayaks to explore further into the unknown.  Returning to the campsite we relax for the afternoon and head into Byblos for Pizza and locals watching.  Mercedes and BMW's outnumber all other make of cars.  How these young kids afford them we haven't figured out.

May 25, 2006.  Our last rest day before heading north into Syria and then Turkey.  The hottest day yet.  Humidity must have been 99%, we spent most of the day snorkeling and cooling of in the Mediterranean Sea.  The afternoon, Mike fixed one of the Thermo rests as it sprang a leak and we organized our gear and recharged all the electronics.  Our route through Turkey has been picked and researched and we are ready to tackle another three (3) months of adventure. 

May 26, 2006.  We wake up to a beautiful clear blue sky over the mountains.  Our goal is to try finding our way through the mountains into the Qadisha Valley.  From Amchit we randomly pick a road that leads up the mountain.  With no signage we rely mostly on our GPS.  Every village leads to a three (3) way unsigned fork in the road.  It amazes us to this point that we actually made it to Bcharre, 80 some km from Amchit and 3 plus some hours later.  We recognized three (3) towns along the way, Douma, Hasroun and our destination Bcharre.  The drive along the narrow windy mountain roads did not disappoint.  The scenery is incredible.  Bcharre is situated on the edge of a large gorge and houses numerous red roof houses and churches. We gained an altitude of 1800m from sea level. Instead of heading onwards toward Syria we decide to stay at the Tiger House Pension for $25US/night including breakfast.  After a hearty lunch at the RTC restaurant we ride up to the Qadisha Grotto and walk the 1.5km to the cave entrance, only to be disappointed that it doesn't open until June.  Climbing to over 2000m, we find the last remaining forest of biblical cedars in Lebanon.  It is also known as the Arz ar-Rab (Cedar of the Lord).  The forest is classified as a national monument.  The road over the slopes of Jebel Makmel just opened to traffic and we hit an altitude of 2800m at the summit.  The snow banks reach up to 5m on each side of the road and it is totally amazing to ride the motorcycle through the narrow passage ways.  This is the Lebanon we will remember. Snow capped mountains, green valleys and red roof houses.

May 27, 2006.  Finding our way from Bcharre to Tripoli is no problem.  We descend rapidly from the most beautiful spot in Lebanon to the not so beautiful industrial coastline. Due to all the houses and shops the coastline is not visible until almost reaching the border crossing at Aarida.  The last 10km toward the Syrian border the road turns into a one lane, pot holed kind of paved road.  The GPS indicates the correct direction.  This border crossing is definitely not very busy or organized.  We have to pay 40 Lira for Departure Tax and our passport and carnet get the exit stamp. It is back into Syria.